Luna de Casanova x Daily Mail Interview
Luna de Casanova is a former model and fashion commentator in her late forties. She lives in Central London with her two whippets, Bertie and George.
How and when did your love of Chanel begin? Please go into some detail about your first memories of it.
I grew up in a Madrid which was still coming to terms with the end of the Franco era. Women dressed conservatively and bought selectively. It was usual, unless you were very wealthy, to save for some time in order to buy an outfit or a handbag which you would then use for the rest of your life. For most women, the unspoken object of desire was not an Argentinian polo player but a Chanel suit or a Hermes bag.
Since most women only wore Chanel on special occasions, I saw it at weddings but mostly at funerals! The first Chanel suit a Spanish woman of that era would buy would inevitably be black. These were practical, pragmatic women – like Chanel herself.
What do you adore about the brand and why is it so special to you?
I love Chanel because it has remained faithful to its heritage. It’s been about evolution – not revolution. Too often, brands appoint designers who decide to take the brand ‘in a new direction’, discarding history and ignoring long-standing customers. Provided you avoid the obvious ‘fashion’ pieces in a Chanel collection, you can buy a dress or a suit that you will be able to wear for many years to come.
What was the first item you bought - or had bought for you - and can you describe what it was like (colour, style etc) and how it made you feel when you were wearing it?
I was in Tokyo, aged 17, working seven days a week as a model and rapidly becoming jaded when I saw a classic black and gold Chanel handbag in a Ginza shop window. I bought it the following day, wore it everywhere and with everything, and never complained about long hours again!
What's your favourite piece in your collection and why - please mention when you bought it, where etc?
My favourite piece is a burgundy coat and skirt which was originally shown in the Fall 2014 haute couture collection. It is a stunning piece, beautifully tailored with matching shorts to wear under the skirt. I eventually picked it up in rue Cambon after several fittings.
My next favourite is a vintage dress worn in the Spring-Summer 1995 show by Linda Evangelista. I bought it at auction and although it is too large for me to wear, I would never give it up.
Why is Chanel such an iconic brand in your view?
Women aspire to own Chanel. This is the key to the company’s success, not only in Europe and the US, but now in Eastern Europe and Asia. Chanel doesn’t pretend to be cutting-edge fashion. Quite the contrary. It offers ‘fashion’ to those who want it and ‘stability’ to those who don’t. It is also highly commercial, using celebrity endorsements to sprinkle fairy dust over clothes your grandmother might wear. And it works. You may not be about to buy a Pharrell-endorsed sweatshirt for £5,000 but there are plenty of people who will – and did.
What's the most expensive item in your collection?
The burgundy coat and skirt mentioned above.
How many items do you have in your collection (roughly if you don't know)
I really have no idea and it is difficult to estimate as a good part of my wardrobe is kept at my house in France.
What special memories do you have of wearing Chanel?
I met Karl Lagerfeld several times, but the most remarkable meeting was in Rome when I was wearing a crystal-beaded mini-dress from his Spring 2014 collection. He recognised it immediately and told me that it was one of his favourite pieces. That was special.
What direction do you think it's going now?
Commercially, Chanel is more profitable than ever given the number of new buyers from Eastern Europe and Asia. Artistically, it’s doing less well. Karl Lagerfeld was a hugely productive and creative designer but his last years were characterised by failing health. Virginie Viard may have worked with him for many years but she has yet to demonstrate that she can move the brand forward. Her collections to date have been un-remarkable, more pastiche than progress. Chanel is like a super tanker – its momentum will keep it moving forward for a while – but it will not be able to maintain its leading position unless it demonstrates greater creativity than it’s done in the past few years.
Will you pass on your collection to someone else eventually and if so who and why?
Probably not. I try not to keep clothes that I don’t wear, giving them to friends and family. Whatever is left, will go to the charity shop in the hope that somebody else can enjoy these clothes as much as I did.
